Wednesday, October 17, 2007

From which country?

Jeremiah and Devin, the last two of our group showed up a few days ago, so we are now complete.  Unfortunately, they've both been a bit sick the entire time they've been here so have been spending a lot of time sleeping and just hanging out at the hotel with us, but it has still been incredibly fun finally having the group all together.  And it's really nice having one person (Jeremiah) who's been here a number of times before.  He is a wealth of information, stories, and bits of knowledge.  In fact, having had a chance to grow brave in Kolkata already, he did something very sweet for me the night before last.  The group, minus Devin who was sick, was walking home from the New Market area when a Bengali boy walks past me and rubs my hand.  I thought nothing of it until he looked back at me with a smile and a smug look on his face.  Jeremiah heard me muttering under my breath and asked what had happened.  When I told him, he asked permission to "do something."  I gave it to him, of course, and he caught up with the Bengali boy.  Apparently, what he did (I didn't see, unfortunately)  was go up to the boy, grab his hand, and ask him if he liked holding hands with a white person.  Because, of course, that's what he was trying to do with me, right?  Well, the Bengali boy apologized to Jeremiah a number of times and Jeremiah had him wait and apologize to me as well.  It was definitely a nice feeling. 

Sunday was the Eid festival, marking the end of Ramadan for the Muslims.  The Muslim district of Kolkata was absolutely vibrant, which made my walk to and from the Mother House on Sunday most pleasant.  There was less vehicle traffic (meaning less honking!) and much much more foot traffic.  It was beautiful walking past the Muslim temple, which was absolutely full of Muslim men praying, and walking past all the men sitting in the street listening to passages being read over a loudspeaker.  We heard Sean Paul at least twice; these Indians have good taste in music.  It is wonderful to see so much unity and peace in the center of a city that never seems to stop.  The evening was even more vibrant.  We walked through part of the Muslim district, and it was lit up with Christmas lights, tinsel was hanging from buildings, there was festival games going on, and people had out humongous speakers blasting music.  A few Muslim men even got John McCartney (one of our group) and a friend of ours we met in Kolkata, Elijah, to dance with them.  And everyone was wearing beautiful new clothing.

Another thing that really struck me was the presence of women during the festival.  This was not so much the case in the Muslim district, but it was definitely obvious when I was near the Kali temple area (a Hindu area).  I have a feeling that has more to do with Durga Puja, which began today, but I really started noticing the day of Eid.  Anyways, there were far more women out and about than I have seen my entire time here, which made me incredibly happy.  The women here are absolutely beautiful.  I don't think that I've seen a single women who didn't have at least one very attractive feature.  And they all dress in the most elaborate outfits.  I really wish that they were out and about all the time.

This brings me to my next subject.  Since being here, I have had a number of conversations with Indian men.  The men here on Sudder St. are very friendly to foreigners, and for the most part are so in a way that doesn't make you feel singled out as a foreign women, which isn't true of other areas.  But I have yet to sit down and have a good conversation with an Indian women, aside from the conversations I don't understand with the women of Kalighat.  It's truly unfortunate that they have to close themselves off because of their gender.  Their toughness on the street is part of what makes them beautiful, but it also makes them hard to approach.  
Even the masys in the homes where I work are hard to approach.  A large part of that is language barrier, few seem to speak any English.  They are all friendly and smile at the volunteers and try to instruct volunteers in a friendly way.  In fact, we had a birthday at Sishu Bavan the other day and the masys were dancing and encouraging the volunteers to join in.  However, I think that it's hard to get out of the mindset of thinking of all Indian women as the tough women in the street pushing their way through crowds and keeping all their attention straight ahead.  
This lack of conversation, of course, is due mostly to my own inability to get past how tough these women look.  They intimidate me.  This is really something that I will be trying to work on the next couple of weeks, because I know these women have incredible stories to tell and opinions to express.  I just have to make an effort to get it out of them.

Other than that, things are still going well.  I am getting used to always being dirty and there is still the occasional stomach ache, but the city continues to grow on me.  Luckily, I don't mean that literally.  No mold yet.  YES!

Love and Peace,
Melissa

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